How to clean windows with your system

Pure-Water Pole-Fed Basic Operating Instructions This section will provide a basic guide to using a WFP set-up. Please note that it is only provided as a guide and is not definitive as there are many variations in methods. Having filled the vehicle tank, you are now ready to start cleaning windows - 1. Pull your hose end out of vehicle. Plug in hose reel and reel out your microbore to the furthest point first and then work back. 2. Ensure your pump is switched on. Plug pole in. Extend pole. 3. Turn on flow valve. 4. Always start by brushing the whole window first with your water flow on, concentrating on top edge of glass first as this is where most dirt collects. This is where you start rinsing so you want to get it really clean. Brush entire window at least twice. If this is a first clean you may need to brush and rinse several times. 5. Once window pane has been brushed, you need to rinse off. Holding your pole head 10-12 inches from the window pane you need to rinse the window pane. Your aim is to achieve a 'water-curtain' effect from the top of the pane down. Always build up a 'head' of water at the top and then follow it down the pane with the water jets. Never try to rinse too wide a section of glass at a time, ie, you may have just brushed down a 10 ft wide window but rinse it off in 2 ft strips down. If cleaning Georgian windows, only rise two panes width down at a time. Check your window after rinsing for any bits that need an extra rinse or even another scrub. Words of caution- Vents, be very careful on some modern windows with top mounted vents as these can hold a lot of dirt. When rinsing down be careful not to spray any water into these vents, as it will later run back down as 'dirty' water usually about 5 minutes after you walk away from the window! Old Windows, these will need a thorough scrub the first clean and careful rinsing afterward as they can hold a lot of dirt in the cracked putty. That's it - it's simple. It does take quite a few months to master this technique properly and at least a year to be fully 'up to speed'. For the first time on a job check your windows before leaving. Essential items of PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) Good sunglasses, looking up all the time at bright windows can leave you almost blinded, we wouldn't be without a good pair of glasses. Gloves, we use Kevlar reinforced full fingered gloves, these protect your hands from not only the cold, but also from pinching your hands in the pole mechanism and from the 'drying out' effects of the purified water. We can supply these if necessary. For warmer weather disposable Nitrile gloves will provide protect from dirt. POLE SYSTEM MAINTENANCE All components of the system will eventually wear, some faster than others, but proper use and maintenance can prolong the life of each part. Below is a list of each component, its expected life span and suggested maintenance. FLOJET PUMP - Expected life in excess of three years. We have worn one of these out in three years on one of our vehicles. It had constant five day a week, two pole usage. Other pumps are still going strong long past this time. Visually check pump housing for leaks. This is a sign of diaphragm or bearing failure. If pump fails to shut off when net in use, the pressure switch is usually broken. These can easily be replaced. HOSE END-STOP CONNECTORS - Six to twelve months. These items will take the most wear as they get dragged along the ground and even run over by vehicles. If they start to get stiff, make sure there is no grit in the mechanism. HOSE ON REEL - Six months - two years. This has a fairly high wear rate depending on the type of work you carry out. Domestic work tends to incur higher wear than commercial due to more frequent reeling in and out and dragging round buildings. You can prolong the hose life by being careful when pulling around sharp corners and also in not allowing vehicles to drive over it. The damage to this will not always be visible as often the inner core of the hose will wear first. You will know when your hose needs replacing as it will either burst (inner and outer layer failure) or it suddenly starts to enlarge along its length (inner core failure). You can successfully repair the hose if you have a simple inner and outer layer failure, ie, your hose gets cut through. Using one of our 6 mm inline hose menders and two 11-13 mm O rings, you can effect a good repair. If the inner layer of the hose has broken down in an undefined place, we have found the simplest method is to replace the hose. POLES - One year - ten years. This is purely dependent on its usage. On commonly used poles, we replace them every 12-18 months but our larger (more expensive) less used poles, last for years and years. Regular care and maintenance will prolong the life. If poles get gritty, extend pole fully and hose down. Grit will accelerate the wear on the pole surface and clamps. From time to time, you can wipe down your pole with a silicone based house polish. During the life of the pole you will need to adjust the clamps. As sections of the pole wear, you can start off by using the second click on the clamp. As wear progresses, you will need to tighten the clamp bolt by a turn. REVERSE OSMOSIS UNIT (100gpd) - Three to six years. The life of this unit will depend on how regularly you change the pre-filters and flush the membrane. We recommend that you flush the membrane by turning the flush valve at least once a month and leave running for at least ten minutes. Pre-filter changing is the single most important thing you can do to prolong the life of your reverse osmosis membrane. Failure to change these pre-filters, whilst not immediately affecting water quality, will gradually start to damage the membrane. Recommend change intervals are: For single operator usage - Four months For dual operator usage - Two-three months Always change all three pre-filters together. After replacing filters, disconnect final filter output from membrane housing and allow unit to run for at least one hour. This will enable any damaging particles from new filters to flush through. Reconnect and start processing again. Resin bead change is the final stage in the unit and this will need changing whenever your output TDS reading rises above 000-001ppm. To change resin bead, simply unscrew end of canister, pull out mesh or foam packer (keep), empty and throw away old resin, tightly pack in new resin, replace mesh or foam packer and refit end cap. REVERSE OSMOSIS, MERLIN - Expected life span one - three years. These units are relatively maintenance free. They just have one pre-filter which will need changing very regularly as this is the only protection for the two RO membranes. Using this system for window cleaning you will need to change this pre-filter about every two months. RESIN BEAD POST-FILTERS - On your vehicle systems, these will need refilling whenever your output TDS reading rises above 000-001ppm. Using filter wrench, unscrew lower clear housing, remove inner canister, remove one end of inner canister, pull out mesh or foam packer (keep), empty and throw away old resin, tightly pack in new resin, replace mesh or foam packer and then replace end cap. Ensure that rubber seals on both ends of inner canister are sited properly and are free from resin bead granules. Put back into outer housing and carefully screw back into position. VEHICLE HOSES - Long life. Periodically check for wear and tighten jubilee clips. VEHICLE TANK - Unlimited life span. We haven't had one wear out yet! From time to time small bits may accumulate in your tank. When this happens, either drain the tank and clean it out or using a very fine mesh sieve, fish them out. Don't be too fussy about these bits as they don't seem to affect your TDS.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much of the frame should I clean? It's up to you, but with the top edge of the window, it can be crucial to your finished job knowing what to clean and what to leave. If you start to clean the frame make sure you get it clean, as any dirty water will work its way down onto the glass. There is usually a natural division. Remember, whatever you brush will run down onto your window, so don't take on too much. The first clean will always take longer because more of the frame will need to be done. Some people warn there clients that there might be the odd run down from the frames the first clean - if you get it right, this shouldn't happen. You will find that some windows are trickier than others - time will tell which windows play up!

I seem to be spending just as long as I used to - where is the time-saving advantage? You will probably save no time the first month because a. You are learning as you go b. You will have to explain the new system to your customers as you go and also every Tom, Dick and Harry who walks past c. You are having to re-learn every window - it does take time d. You are having to learn where to run your hoses around the building. Getting this right will save you up to 10 minutes on each job It will improve, just be patient. As each day goes by, you will get slightly faster until six months later you will not believe how fast you are!

Some people say it will never do as good a job - is this true? In many cases we find it actually does a better job. Correctly used it will always do a good job. We are still amazed at how perfectly it cleans. A good way of checking the efficiency of your technique is to do your own house and then go and clean the insides. You will learn a lot.

What will the system clean off and what will it not clean off? It will clean off the following: Bird mess - it is essential to pre-soak this with the purified water and leave it to soften. Sometimes you will have to do this several times. You will get used to looking out for it and giving a quick squirt of water when you first arrive. Then you will have to scrub and scrub! It can be very tough! Snail trails - every window cleaner knows how stubborn these can be, but with the brush it's straightforward. Your first brush down will highlight where they are then just scrub and watch them melt away. Caterpillar trails - these are usually some of the hardest of things to remove but pure water just melts them. A second scrub will easily remove them. Fingerprints - your first brush down will highlight them then just concentrate your scrubbing on them. Putty marks - a pre-soak and scrub will usually remove most putty marks on glass. Allow putty to harden for a few weeks before working on the window. Fresh plaster and concrete - if it is only a few days old, pure water will usually dissolve even concrete (be careful to rinse brush head off afterward). It will not clean off the following: Dried on egg - trick or treat time! This dries like glue and the only thing that will ever remove it completely is a scraper. Silicone or masonry sealant - scraper time again. Paint - scraper time again.

How do I clean over a flat roof? We virtually never have to get on a roof to clean the window above. If the pole is long enough, you can usually just reach over either straight on or from either side. Even if you have to do this from either side in two hits, it is quicker than getting your ladder off your vehicle.

What happens when there are railings across the bottom half of doors and windows? This depends on the railing width. On most railings, you can wiggle your brush head between the railings and clean it a section at a time just as you would with a squeegee. You can also apply this technique to balconies with railings. If they are just too close together, you can clean the top half as normal and just rinse off the bottom half using the end of your brush to rub any stubborn marks off. On some commercial jobs, we have been asked to quote for all windows apart from patio doors with railings. Discuss what you are able to do with the customer first as most are very accommodating.

Many people, including our customers, say that the glass stays cleaner longer - why is this? Firstly, because over a period of time, the frames gradually get cleaner, leaving no dirt for the rain to wash down onto the glass. Secondly, because it washes so efficiently with no detergents, it leaves no detergent residue on the glass, which would otherwise attract particles of dirt.© A .

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